Do you need to wash it?
Not every piece needs washing. If it is clean and only slightly creased, a press is enough.
| What you see | What to do |
|---|---|
| Light creases, nothing else | Press only |
| Hoop rings | Wash, then press; a light mist and second press for stubborn ones |
| Grubby areas from handling | Wash |
| Water-soluble pen or gridding marks | Wash before any ironing: heat can set some inks |
| Old, fragile or inherited piece | Ask a textile conservator before washing |
Marks from pens and pencils
Marking tools behave very differently in water and heat, so check what you used before you wash or press:
| Marker | How it comes out | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Water-soluble fabric pen | Cold-water rinse or wash | Ironing before it is washed out can set some inks |
| Heat-erasable pen (such as FriXion) | Disappears with heat | It is hidden, not removed: Pilot says the ink turns invisible above 60°C and reappears below about −10°C |
| Graphite pencil | Gentle wash; may need a soft eraser first | Smudges grey into light fabric; press lightly when marking |
| Gridding thread | Pull it out before washing | Stitches that pierced it can make it hard to remove |
The safest habit is to wash out any pen marks before the piece goes anywhere near an iron. For marking stitch fabric in future, a water-soluble pen made for needlework is the most predictable choice.
Washing step by step
- Rinse under cold running water first, which shifts loose dirt and shows early on whether any colour wants to run.
- Wash gently by hand in a basin of cold water with a small amount of mild, non-biological detergent. Avoid biological powders, harsh detergents and chlorine bleach. Swish the piece; do not rub or scrub, which fuzzes the threads.
- Treat marks by blotting gently with a clean cloth and a little mild detergent, working from the outside of the mark inwards.
- Rinse several times in cold water until it runs clear and no soap remains.
- Do not wring. Roll the piece in a clean towel and squeeze gently to take out the water.
- Dry flat on a dry towel until it is just damp, then press.
DMC also advises against protective coating sprays and against washing needlework with other embroidery or laundry, where dye from one item can transfer to another.
If colours run
Reds and very dark colours occasionally bleed, especially with older or unbranded thread. If you see colour in the water:
- Stop washing and keep the piece wet.
- Keep rinsing in cold water, changing it often, until the water stays clear.
- Never let a bleeding piece dry with the colour in the fabric; a dried stain is much harder to shift.
- A colour-catcher sheet in the rinse water can help absorb loose dye.
Prevention is easier than cure. If you are unsure about a thread, stitch a few crosses on a scrap of white fabric and soak it before using that thread in a project. If the test bleeds, it is often wiser not to wash the finished piece at all.
Pressing
- Lay a thick, fluffy towel on the ironing board and place the damp piece face down on it.
- Cover the back with a second thin towel or a pressing cloth, such as a clean cotton handkerchief.
- Use a warm iron, never a hot one. Steam helps lift creases and fold lines.
- Press rather than slide: put the iron down, lift, move, put it down again.
- Press until almost dry, then let the piece finish drying flat.
Hoop rings usually disappear after washing and pressing; stubborn ones respond to a light mist of water and another press.
Storing finished pieces
Store unframed pieces flat, or rolled round a tube with the stitching facing out, wrapped in acid-free tissue or a clean cotton pillowcase rather than plastic, which can trap moisture. Keep them out of direct sunlight, which fades colours and weakens fibres over time.
When to finish
After washing and pressing, the piece is ready for a hoop, a frame, a cushion or a card. See finishing in a hoop or framing cross stitch.