What you need
| Item | Beginner choice |
|---|---|
| Canvas | mono or interlock canvas, 10- or 13-mesh |
| Thread | tapestry wool on 10-mesh; stranded or pearl cotton on 13- and 18-mesh |
| Needle | blunt tapestry needle: size 18 for 10–12 mesh, 20 for 13–14 mesh, 22 for 18 mesh |
| Frame | stretcher bars or a scroll frame |
| Tape | masking tape for the canvas edges |
Mesh is the number of holes per inch. A design 100 stitches wide is 10 inches across on 10-mesh, about 7.7 inches on 13-mesh and 5.6 inches on 18-mesh. The needlepoint pattern maker shows the finished size for each mesh as you choose the width.
| Mesh | 100 × 100 design | Canvas to cut (+2 in each side) | Thread per 1,000 stitches |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10-mesh | 10.0 × 10.0 in | 14.0 × 14.0 in | 10.8 m |
| 12-mesh | 8.3 × 8.3 in | 12.3 × 12.3 in | 9.0 m |
| 13-mesh | 7.7 × 7.7 in | 11.7 × 11.7 in | 8.3 m |
| 14-mesh | 7.1 × 7.1 in | 11.1 × 11.1 in | 7.7 m |
| 18-mesh | 5.6 × 5.6 in | 9.6 × 9.6 in | 6.0 m |
Thread estimates allow each tent stitch its diagonal on the front, about two mesh-widths of travel on the back (continental or basketweave) and 25% for tails, the same rule as our materials lists. Half cross uses noticeably less.
Interlock canvas has threads twisted together at each crossing, so it does not unravel and is easy to cut into shapes. Mono canvas has single threads and is used with frames for traditional work.
Tent stitch
Almost all needlepoint charts use tent stitch: one small diagonal stitch over one crossing of the canvas threads, always slanting the same way (lower left to upper right on the front). Each square of the chart is one stitch. There are three ways to work it, and they look identical from the front:
- Continental: worked in rows, each stitch with a long slant on the back. Good for lines and small areas, but it pulls the canvas out of square over large areas.
- Basketweave: worked in diagonal rows, alternating up and down. DMC calls it the most durable tent stitch and the least likely to distort the canvas, and it gives a woven back. The best choice for backgrounds.
- Half cross: DMC describes it as the most economical, because it uses less thread, but it is the least hard-wearing. Avoid it for cushions and anything that will be handled.
Starting and ending threads
Use the waste knot method: tie a knot at the end of the thread and take the needle down from the front about an inch away from where you will start, in the path of your stitching. Stitch towards it, covering the thread on the back, then snip the knot off. To finish, run the needle under several stitches on the back and trim. Keep thread lengths to about 18 inches; wool wears thin when pulled through canvas repeatedly.
Covering the canvas
The canvas threads should not show between stitches. If they do, the thread is too thin for the mesh: add a strand of stranded cotton or use a thicker wool. Stitch a small test patch before starting a big area. Do not pull too tight, which also lets canvas peek through.
Order of work
- Mark the centre of the canvas and match it to the chart’s centre arrows.
- Stitch the motif first, working outward from the centre, one colour area at a time.
- Fill the background last, in basketweave.
Blocking
Even with care, needlepoint usually ends up slightly skewed. Blocking squares it: dampen the finished piece, pin it face down onto a board marked with a grid, pulling it straight, and leave it to dry completely. Then it is ready to make into a cushion, a coaster, an ornament or a framed picture.
Projects to start with
Coasters, ornaments and small cushions are perfect first projects. The needlepoint pattern library has small fully charted designs, and any photo or drawing can become a canvas chart in the pattern maker.