Safety and setup
Ironing is where most accidents happen, so set up before the iron goes on:
- An adult does the fusing, as Perler’s own instructions say, or closely supervises an older child who is ready for it.
- Work on a level, heat-resistant surface, away from the table edge, with the cable out of reach.
- Never put the iron straight on the beads or pegboard. Ironing paper goes between them every time.
- Pegboards are plastic and warp with too much heat, so never put one in the oven, and keep them away from other heat too.
- Ventilate the room, and stop if you see smoke or smell burning plastic.
- Switch the iron off and put it somewhere safe to cool as soon as you finish.
| You need | Why |
|---|---|
| A household iron, steam off | Steam can blow beads out of place and leave water marks |
| Ironing paper (or baking paper) | Stops the beads sticking to the iron |
| A heavy book | Keeps the piece flat while it cools |
| A tray or chopping board | Lets you move the pegboard without spilling beads |
Before you iron
- Check the pattern one last time against the chart; it is much harder to fix after ironing.
- Lay a sheet of ironing paper or baking paper over the beads, covering the whole design with some overlap.
- Set the iron to medium, steam off. Some irons run hot, so do a test on a few spare beads first.
Ironing step by step
- Hold the iron flat just touching the paper and move it in slow circles over the whole design, without pressing down.
- After about 10 seconds, lift a corner of the paper to check. Perler’s standard fusing method allows 10 to 20 seconds per side, and says properly ironed beads still have an open centre.
- Continue in short bursts until every bead has fused to its neighbours.
- Let it cool slightly, then peel off the paper.
- Turn the piece over, lift it off the pegboard, put the paper on the other side and iron the back the same way.
- Immediately place the piece flat under a heavy book until completely cool.
Ironing both sides makes the piece stronger and helps it stay flat.
How much to melt
- Light fuseRound holes, beads just touching. Flexible and delicate.
- Medium fuseSmaller holes, beads joined. Sturdy for most projects.
- Full fuseHoles almost closed. Very strong and flat.
| Look | Result | Use |
|---|---|---|
| Light fuse: round holes, beads just touching | flexible, delicate | ornaments, display |
| Medium fuse: smaller holes, beads joined | sturdy | magnets, keyrings, most projects |
| Full fuse: holes closed | very strong, flat | coasters, things that get handled |
Fixing common problems
- Beads not joined: iron again for a few more seconds; check the edges, which cool fastest.
- Holes closed and shiny: the iron was too hot or held too long. It is still usable, just flatter.
- Warping or curling: iron the other side and cool under a book. Uneven pressure or heat causes it.
- Beads stuck to the paper: let the piece cool a little longer before peeling; reusable ironing paper loses its non-stick finish with use, so replace it when beads start to cling.
- Gaps in the design: usually a missing bead. Add the bead and iron that area lightly.
Big projects
Designs bigger than one pegboard are built on several boards that clip together. Iron the whole design at once while it is still on the joined boards, then flip it as one piece. The pegboard planning guide explains how to split large designs, and the bead calculator counts beads and boards.
Mini and maxi beads
Mini beads (about 2.5 mm; Hama lists 2.5 mm and Perler 2.6 mm) melt much faster than midi beads (5 mm): use a lower setting and check every few seconds. Maxi beads (10 mm), which Hama recommends from age 3, need longer, more even heat. Always use paper whatever the size.
What to make
Finished pieces make magnets (glue a small magnet on the back), keyrings (fuse lightly so the edge holes stay open, then thread a jump ring through one), coasters, ornaments and wall art. The fuse bead pattern library has designs that fit one square pegboard, each with bead counts.