What “count” actually measures
Fabric count is the number of stitches you can make in one inch of fabric. On 14-count Aida there are 14 stitchable blocks per inch, so 14 cross stitches in a row measure one inch. On 18-count there are 18, so the same 14 stitches take up just under 0.8 inch.
That one number decides three things:
- Finished size. Higher counts make smaller, finer pieces from the same chart.
- How fine the work feels. Higher counts mean smaller holes and more careful counting.
- Thread. Smaller stitches use fewer strands and less thread each.
Because a chart counts stitches rather than measuring distance, you never need a different chart for a different fabric. You only need to know how big the result will be.
- 14-count Aida
- 5.5 / cm14 stitches per inch, each 1.8 mm across
- 18-count Aida
- 7.1 / cm18 per inch, each 1.4 mm across
- 28-count over two
- 14 / inthe same size as 14-count Aida
Here is every common count converted, so you can compare fabrics sold in inches and in centimetres. The stitch size is the width of one cross.
| Count (per inch) | Stitches per cm | One stitch | 100 stitches measure |
|---|---|---|---|
| 6 | 2.36 | 4.23 mm | 16.7 in · 42.3 cm |
| 8 | 3.15 | 3.18 mm | 12.5 in · 31.8 cm |
| 11 | 4.33 | 2.31 mm | 9.1 in · 23.1 cm |
| 14 | 5.51 | 1.81 mm | 7.1 in · 18.1 cm |
| 16 | 6.30 | 1.59 mm | 6.3 in · 15.9 cm |
| 18 | 7.09 | 1.41 mm | 5.6 in · 14.1 cm |
| 20 | 7.87 | 1.27 mm | 5.0 in · 12.7 cm |
| 22 | 8.66 | 1.15 mm | 4.5 in · 11.5 cm |
| 25 | 9.84 | 1.02 mm | 4.0 in · 10.2 cm |
| 28 | 11.02 | 0.91 mm | 3.6 in · 9.1 cm |
| 32 | 12.60 | 0.79 mm | 3.1 in · 7.9 cm |
Aida, evenweave and linen
Aida
Aida is woven in clear blocks with a hole at each corner. Each block takes one cross stitch, which makes counting straightforward. It is firm enough to stitch with or without a hoop and is the usual choice for beginners and for photo-style designs made of full stitches. Specialist shops typically stock 6, 8, 11, 14, 16 and 18-count, and finer Aida such as 20-count is also made. The very coarse 6 and 8-count cloths, sometimes called Binca, are popular for children.
Aida is also sold as pre-cut pieces: Zweigart’s common size is about 19 × 21 inches (48 × 53 cm), enough for a design up to about 13 × 15 inches once you allow 3-inch margins, whatever the count.
Evenweave
Evenweave is woven with the same number of threads running each way, without Aida’s obvious blocks. It is normally stitched over two: each cross covers two threads across and two threads down, so the effective stitch count is half the fabric count. It looks smoother and more refined, and fractional stitches are easier because there is a hole in the middle of each two-by-two square.
Common examples are Lugana (Zweigart, usually 25-count), Murano (the 32-count version of the same Zweigart fabric) and Jobelan (usually 28-count, from a different maker). These are cotton and modal blends, roughly half and half.
Linen
Linen is a natural fibre, also stitched over two. Its threads vary slightly in thickness, which gives a hand-made texture but makes counting less forgiving. Linens are sold from about 25-count upwards (Zweigart’s Dublin); Belfast (32-count) is a widely stocked example. Many experienced stitchers choose linen for samplers and heirloom pieces.
Which fabric for which project
| You want… | Choose | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Your first project | 14-count Aida | Clear holes, firm, forgiving |
| A child’s project or big, bold stitches | 6–11-count Aida | Large holes, easy to see and handle |
| Photo-style detail | 16–18-count Aida | Small stitches blend into smooth shading |
| Lots of fractional (¼ and ¾) stitches | Evenweave over two | A centre hole in every stitch |
| An heirloom sampler | Linen over two | Soft drape and traditional look |
| A tiny piece (charm, card, ornament) | 18-count, or evenweave over one | Small finished size |
“Over two” and “over one”
When you stitch over two, each stitch spans two fabric threads, so the effective count is half the fabric count. Over one, each stitch spans a single thread and the work is twice as fine.
| Fabric | Over two | Over one |
|---|---|---|
| 25-count | 12.5 per inch (between 11 and 14-count Aida) | 25 per inch |
| 28-count | 14 per inch (same as 14-count Aida) | 28 per inch |
| 32-count | 16 per inch (same as 16-count Aida) | 32 per inch |
| 36-count | 18 per inch (same as 18-count Aida) | 36 per inch |
This is why “28-count over two” and “14-count Aida” produce exactly the same finished size from one chart. The fabric size calculator has an “over two” option, so you can enter the count printed on the label without converting it yourself.
How count changes the finished size
Divide the number of stitches by the count to get inches. A design 120 stitches wide is 120 ÷ 14 = 8.6 inches on 14-count Aida.
To get the fabric to cut, add your margin to each side: with 3 inches all round, add 6 inches to both the width and the height.
| Fabric | Finished size | Fabric to cut (3 in margins) |
|---|---|---|
| 11-count | 10.9 × 8.2 in · 27.7 × 20.8 cm | 16.9 × 14.2 in |
| 14-count (or 28 over two) | 8.6 × 6.4 in · 21.8 × 16.3 cm | 14.6 × 12.4 in |
| 16-count (or 32 over two) | 7.5 × 5.6 in · 19.1 × 14.3 cm | 13.5 × 11.6 in |
| 18-count (or 36 over two) | 6.7 × 5.0 in · 16.9 × 12.7 cm | 12.7 × 11.0 in |
| 22-count | 5.5 × 4.1 in · 13.9 × 10.4 cm | 11.5 × 10.1 in |
The same chart ranges from roughly the size of a sheet of A4 down to something that fits in a greeting card. When you download a PDF from the cross stitch pattern maker, the cover page lists the finished size and the fabric to buy for the count you chose. To resize an existing pattern to a target width, use the Aida count converter.
Strands and needles for each count
Finer fabric needs fewer strands of stranded cotton and a finer needle, because each stitch is physically smaller. DMC’s stranded cotton has six strands that separate easily, so you choose how many to stitch with.
| Count | Strands for full crosses | Tapestry needle |
|---|---|---|
| 6–8 | 3 or more | 18–20 |
| 11 | about 3 | 22 |
| 14 | 2 | 24 (some prefer 26) |
| 16 | 2 | 26 |
| 18 | 1–2 | 28 |
| 28 / 32 / 36 over two | 2 | 24 / 26 / 28 |
Backstitch outlines are usually worked with one strand on 14-count and finer. These are starting points rather than rules: stitch a few crosses on the edge of your fabric, look at them from arm’s length, and add or drop a strand until the coverage looks right to you.
How count changes the thread you need
A smaller stitch uses less thread, so the same skein covers more stitches on a finer fabric. Using fewer strands stretches it further still.
Full cross stitches from one 8 m skein
By fabric count, for one, two and three strands
- 1 strand
- 2 strands
- 3 strands
Show the numbers
| Fabric count | 1 strand | 2 strands | 3 strands |
|---|---|---|---|
| 11 | 3.4K | 1.7K | 1.1K |
| 14 | 4.4K | 2.2K | 1.5K |
| 16 | 5.0K | 2.5K | 1.7K |
| 18 | 5.6K | 2.8K | 1.9K |
| 22 | 6.9K | 3.4K | 2.3K |
| 25 | 7.8K | 3.9K | 2.6K |
| 28 | 8.8K | 4.4K | 2.9K |
Two practical rules fall out of this:
- Two strands on 14-count is roughly 2,200 full stitches per skein. On 18-count with the same two strands it is about 2,800, because each stitch is smaller.
- Changing from two strands to one doubles the stitches per skein, but the coverage becomes lighter, so only drop a strand on a finer count or when you want the fabric to show.
Real use varies with your tension and how far you travel between stitches, so the skein calculator rounds up to whole skeins, and buying one extra of your main colour protects you from a dye-lot change halfway through.
Choosing a count
How big do you want it? Work backwards from the space it will fill. Measure the frame opening, subtract any mount, and divide the design’s stitches by that width to find the count that fits.
How comfortable is counting for you? Smaller holes need good light and sometimes magnification. There is no prize for stitching on a finer fabric; choose the count you will enjoy.
How much detail is in the design? A photo pattern with many colours looks smoother at higher counts because each stitch is smaller and blends with its neighbours from a distance. A bold graphic with a handful of colours looks crisp at almost any count.
What coverage do you want? Full, solid coverage suits most photo designs. Some modern styles use a single strand so the fabric shows through for a softer, lighter look.
Fabric colour
Aida, evenweave and linen all come in many colours, from white and antique cream to black and hand-dyed mottled shades. If your pattern leaves the background unstitched, the fabric colour becomes part of the design, so choose it as deliberately as your threads. Pale fabric brightens light thread colours; dark fabric makes them glow but is harder to count on, so good light is essential. A sheet of white paper on your lap behind dark fabric makes the holes much easier to see.
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Fabric shows between stitches | Too few strands for the count | Add a strand, or keep both legs of each cross at an even tension |
| Stitches look lumpy or crowded | Too many strands | Drop a strand; on 18-count try one |
| Holes are hard to see | Fine count, dark fabric or poor light | Daylight bulb, magnifier, white cloth behind the work, or a lower count |
| Design came out too big or small | Count changed from the one planned | Recalculate with the fabric size calculator before cutting |
| Evenweave stitches look uneven | Crosses started on different threads | Start every stitch where a vertical thread lies on top |
Before you cut
- Check the grain. Cut along a single thread line so the edges are square.
- Stop fraying. Overcast the edges, tape them, or run a line of machine zigzag.
- Measure twice. Fabric is often the most expensive single item in a project, so check the size against the cover page of your pattern first.
- Find the centre. Fold in half both ways and match it to the centre arrows on the chart. The guide to reading a cross stitch chart walks through this step.